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When doing extensive
work on a firearm, work on a soft surface so that it wont
scratch the metal parts of the gun. It is also wise to
work were light is good and parts will not be lost. In
general it is best not to disassemble a firearm any more
than is really necessary to clean it or repair or replace a
part. Even then it is seldom necessary to disassemble
the rifle beyond the field stripping stage. Every time a
firearm is disassembled beyond the field stripping stage, it
will take some time for some parts to regain their fit, some
parts may tend to shake loose and fall out when firing the
weapon. Some parts of the AK-47 line are riveted
together. Repairing these can be quite a hassle, since
the end of the rivet has to be ground off and a new one set
after the part is replaced.
Ideally the
disassembly steps listed below will NOT be
carried out by anyone other than a competent gunsmith.
A lot of damage can be done if disassembly is done with out
proper knowledge.
1.
Remove the magazine from the gun and cycle the action making
sure the firearm is empty.
2.
Push in the retaining lever (the little button at the
end of the receiver closest to the stock) on the rear of
the receiver, then lift the receiver cover off and back to
remove it exposing the action.
3.
Take out the action spring & retaining rod by
pushing them forward to release them, then lift them up
slightly and back them out of the receiver.
4.
Remove the bolt and bolt carrier (which will also
have the gas piston attached to it) By pulling them back and
out.
5.
Take the bolt out of the carrier by twisting the bolt
counterclockwise and pulling it out of the front of the
carrier.
6.
Remove the gas cylinder by pulling it backward and
lifting it out.
7.
The extractor and extractor spring are held in place
be the large pin (which may be a solid or roll pin depending
on the rifle located on the side of the bolt near the
locking lugs. Before trying to drift out this pin check
to be sure one side isn't staked if it is go out the other
side opposite the staked spot in the bolt. Drift
the pin out with a drift punch or small nail to free the
extractor. Be careful since the spring is under tension.
8.
The smaller pin located on the side of the bolt near
the locking lugs retain the firing pin (and its spring on
models with a firing pin spring) note whether the pin is
staked in place. Drifting the pin out frees the firing
pin take care since this spring is also under pressure.
9.
The gas piston is held to the bolt carrier extension
arm by a roll pin. This pin should be should be
drifted out only if the piston needs to be repaired or
replaced since damage to the piston can occur during this
process.
10.
Flash hiders or muzzle nuts are sometimes held in
place by a pin but usually are screwed onto the barrel some
AK's lack them entirely.
11.
The gas port block is generally held in place by
cross pins don't remove it unless its absolutely necessary,
this can be a tedious process on some rifles and it may be
hard to replace it so it stays in place.
12.
The fore grip may be attached to the rifle in a
variety of ways the method for removal is best determined by
studying the rifle.
13.
The trigger groups pins are released by removing the
looped retaining spring on the left inside of the receiver on
semi-auto rifles, or the long leg of the disconnector spring on
select-fire guns. Before freeing the spring or leg place the
selector in the fire position and while restraining the hammer
pull the trigger. Hold the hammer and carefully lower it
until it is fully forward, facedown. This is done the
retaining spring can be pulled forward and out by grasping its
loop with a pair of needle nosed pliers and pulling forward
and out. On select fire rifles the long leg of the disconnector
spring should be pulled up to free the disconnector pin remove the pin out the left side of the receiver and then
take out the disconnector and its spring to free the other
parts of the trigger group.
14.
Once the retaining spring is removed the trigger
group is freed by sliding the hammer and trigger pins out the
left side of the receiver. This will free the hammer and
its spring which can be removed by turning them slightly and
lifting them out. Next the trigger and sear can be
removed along with the rate reducer and its sear (take care
not to lose the sear spring which sits between the sear and
trigger.)
15.
If the safety/selector needs to be removed rotate
its forward end upward so that it can be pulled out the right
side of the receiver.
16.
Most stocks are held in place by screws or with many
folding stocks pins. Do not remove the stock
unless absolutely necessary for repair or replacement.
17.
The magazine release and its spring are held in
place with a rivet. Do not remove the unless absolutely
necessary.
18.
Pistol grips are generally held in place by a bolt
which can be unscrewed through the open base of the grip.
19.
The front sight post generally screws into its base.
The sight assembly can be removed by drifting a set screw or
screws may need to be loosened first. The front sight
should not be removed unless absolutely necessary since the
tight fit keeps it zeroed.
20.
The rear sight is generally pinned or screwed into
place with its base welded onto the rifle. Note the leaf
springs alignment so that it may be properly realigned.
To
reassemble reverse the process.
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